leaving more "air" in threads?

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leaving more "air" in threads?

bboett
Hello!

i am back at my spoolholder project.... managed to print one exemplary, bugged as hell, but still, at least with my printer, screwing the nut on the screw was quite hard....
so what is the best way to add more tolerance to this? will scale not change the overall geometry of the screw?
i used http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ latest version, but i didn't find an add more space to the internal parameter?

--
ciao
Bruno

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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

nophead
If you scale X & Y but keep Z the same I think it might work. The screw will then have the same pitch but a smaller diameter.

On Sun, 21 Jul 2019 at 21:05, Bruno Boettcher <[hidden email]> wrote:
Hello!

i am back at my spoolholder project.... managed to print one exemplary, bugged as hell, but still, at least with my printer, screwing the nut on the screw was quite hard....
so what is the best way to add more tolerance to this? will scale not change the overall geometry of the screw?
i used http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ latest version, but i didn't find an add more space to the internal parameter?

--
ciao
Bruno

===========================================
http://nohkumado.eu/, http://aikido.nohkumado.eu/,
http://aikido.zorn.free.fr
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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

boxcarmib
In reply to this post by bboett
You can make a threaded joint more tolerant by either increasing the diameter of the nut (because you’ll be subtracting the thread you create from the exterior sides of the nut) or by decreasing the diameter of the bolt… or a bit of both. As long as you don’t change the pitch of the thread then you are simply creating more space between the mating edges of the thread on the nut and bolt.

On Jul 21, 2019, at 1:04 PM, Bruno Boettcher <[hidden email]> wrote:

Hello!

i am back at my spoolholder project.... managed to print one exemplary, bugged as hell, but still, at least with my printer, screwing the nut on the screw was quite hard....
so what is the best way to add more tolerance to this? will scale not change the overall geometry of the screw?
i used http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ latest version, but i didn't find an add more space to the internal parameter?

--
ciao
Bruno

===========================================
http://nohkumado.eu/, http://aikido.nohkumado.eu/,
http://aikido.zorn.free.fr
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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

Leea
I wonder how much the printer accuracy applies here.
Yesterday  Steven Dick posted mating parts to see how well they fit. I
didn't print that one.
A couple of days ago Revar Desmera posted a XY printer slop test block
he designed. I printed that one and found that same size parts do not
slide together as I expected. On my printer .15 difference slides
together nicely with just a little play while .10 is a snug fit (almost
Lego style) and .05 I think I  could get them together (hammer maybe)
but I fear they won't come apart again.

Lee

On 7/21/2019 4:14 PM, Hugo Jackson wrote:

> You can make a threaded joint more tolerant by either increasing the
> diameter of the nut (because you’ll be subtracting the thread you
> create from the exterior sides of the nut) or by decreasing the
> diameter of the bolt… or a bit of both. As long as you don’t change
> the pitch of the thread then you are simply creating more space
> between the mating edges of the thread on the nut and bolt.
>
>> On Jul 21, 2019, at 1:04 PM, Bruno Boettcher <[hidden email]
>> <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>
>> Hello!
>>
>> i am back at my spoolholder project.... managed to print one
>> exemplary, bugged as hell, but still, at least with my printer,
>> screwing the nut on the screw was quite hard....
>> so what is the best way to add more tolerance to this? will scale not
>> change the overall geometry of the screw?
>> i used http://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/ latest version, but i
>> didn't find an add more space to the internal parameter?
>>
>> --
>> ciao
>> Bruno
>>
>> ===========================================
>> http://nohkumado.eu/,
>> <http://bboett.free.fr/>http://aikido.nohkumado.eu/,
>> <http://bboett.free.fr/>
>> http://aikido.zorn.free.fr <http://aikido.zorn.free.fr/>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org
>
>
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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

Troberg
In reply to this post by bboett
Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You won't get
a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your
constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods
instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not
reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and
better in any hardware store.



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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

OpenSCAD mailing list
I've recently printed a  differential screw from Thingiverse
<https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2279953>   simply as an experiment and an
experience.  

It may be the quality of the printer and the current state of its tuning,
but the three components of the differential screw assembled with little
difficulty. I slathered on a bit of wet fifty micron garnet and cranked it
around a few times to smooth out the surfaces a bit, but otherwise it
operated quite well.

The creator, tkircher, used OpenSCAD and a threads library to generate the
parts.

For this project, strength isn't a factor and I doubt I'd be able to find an
off-the-shelf item that demonstrates any better the concept and execution of
differential screws.

<http://forum.openscad.org/file/t824/db79f58a706130e974b490e841eb8036_preview_featured.jpg>

The photo above is not mine, although I linked a "make" in tkircher's
Thingiverse post.



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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

cacb
On 2019-07-23 21:42, fred_dot_u via Discuss wrote:
> I've recently printed a  differential screw from Thingiverse
> <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2279953>   simply as an experiment
> and an
> experience.

I also made an M16 bolt & nut some time ago as an experiment
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1445033

I agree this is mostly for fun and to see how good it can be. This one
worked out quite well.

Carsten Arnholm

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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

Steven Dick
In reply to this post by Troberg
10 years ago I would have agreed with you -- don't bother printing
threads, just use metal inserts or self-thread with a metal screw.
Today with my Ender 3, I've seen enough threaded parts that worked
(much to my surprise) that I can't agree anymore.
If you make the threads big enough with the right tolerances (I agree
with previous poster, ~0.15mm is about right), threads work.

If you look at industrial thread standards (for example, the M* thread
standards), you'll find they include precise tolerances between nuts
and bolts.

I've printed many copies of thing:3494496 (threaded container and lid)
which has come out flawlessly every time with no post processing or
polishing.
9 years ago with my Makerbot cupcake, I printed thing:1384 whose
threads barely worked, and after playing with it for a few weeks
(working it back and forth), it started to work better.
Hobbyist grade FDM has come a long way since then.

(For reference, my cupcake's sliding part tolerance in XY was about
0.25mm.  Z was a lot worse.  My ender's is around 0.1-0.15mm, Z is
probably better.)

On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 3:31 PM Troberg <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
> Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You won't get
> a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your
> constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods
> instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not
> reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and
> better in any hardware store.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> [hidden email]
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org

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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

nophead
I think I made the first printed thread in the Reprap world:  http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/09/screw-top-pot.html.

I don't use them in place of metal fasteners but they are useful for containers and interfacing with pop bottles, etc. Tapping printed holes also works well.

On Wed, 24 Jul 2019 at 11:25, Steven Dick <[hidden email]> wrote:
10 years ago I would have agreed with you -- don't bother printing
threads, just use metal inserts or self-thread with a metal screw.
Today with my Ender 3, I've seen enough threaded parts that worked
(much to my surprise) that I can't agree anymore.
If you make the threads big enough with the right tolerances (I agree
with previous poster, ~0.15mm is about right), threads work.

If you look at industrial thread standards (for example, the M* thread
standards), you'll find they include precise tolerances between nuts
and bolts.

I've printed many copies of thing:3494496 (threaded container and lid)
which has come out flawlessly every time with no post processing or
polishing.
9 years ago with my Makerbot cupcake, I printed thing:1384 whose
threads barely worked, and after playing with it for a few weeks
(working it back and forth), it started to work better.
Hobbyist grade FDM has come a long way since then.

(For reference, my cupcake's sliding part tolerance in XY was about
0.25mm.  Z was a lot worse.  My ender's is around 0.1-0.15mm, Z is
probably better.)

On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 3:31 PM Troberg <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You won't get
> a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your
> constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods
> instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not
> reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and
> better in any hardware store.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> [hidden email]
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org

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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

bboett
hello!

well first of all, a very big thank you all for all the help and patience you showed !
you can admire (heu hrrrmmm) the actual (working) state of the thing on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3769527!

and the threads work like a charm! would't change them for some metal nuts, the fact that i made them quite big, makes for a really fast open and close system, and they are still steep enough to not budge when under the tremors of my printer....

on to the next project!

ciao
Bruno


Am Mi., 24. Juli 2019 um 14:18 Uhr schrieb nop head <[hidden email]>:
I think I made the first printed thread in the Reprap world:  http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/09/screw-top-pot.html.

I don't use them in place of metal fasteners but they are useful for containers and interfacing with pop bottles, etc. Tapping printed holes also works well.

On Wed, 24 Jul 2019 at 11:25, Steven Dick <[hidden email]> wrote:
10 years ago I would have agreed with you -- don't bother printing
threads, just use metal inserts or self-thread with a metal screw.
Today with my Ender 3, I've seen enough threaded parts that worked
(much to my surprise) that I can't agree anymore.
If you make the threads big enough with the right tolerances (I agree
with previous poster, ~0.15mm is about right), threads work.

If you look at industrial thread standards (for example, the M* thread
standards), you'll find they include precise tolerances between nuts
and bolts.

I've printed many copies of thing:3494496 (threaded container and lid)
which has come out flawlessly every time with no post processing or
polishing.
9 years ago with my Makerbot cupcake, I printed thing:1384 whose
threads barely worked, and after playing with it for a few weeks
(working it back and forth), it started to work better.
Hobbyist grade FDM has come a long way since then.

(For reference, my cupcake's sliding part tolerance in XY was about
0.25mm.  Z was a lot worse.  My ender's is around 0.1-0.15mm, Z is
probably better.)

On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 3:31 PM Troberg <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You won't get
> a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your
> constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods
> instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not
> reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and
> better in any hardware store.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/
>
> _______________________________________________
> OpenSCAD mailing list
> [hidden email]
> http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org

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Bruno

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http://aikido.zorn.free.fr

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Re: leaving more "air" in threads?

gasstationwithoutpumps
In reply to this post by Troberg
Troberg wrote
> Kind of outside the OpenSCAD scope, but avoid printing threads. You won't
> get
> a good result on any reasonably priced printer. Try to design your
> constructions so that you can use real metal screws or threaded rods
> instead, and you'll make your life so much simpler. There really is not
> reason to print a simply part when you can buy it cheaper, stronger and
> better in any hardware store.

I had a use for screw threads—making an attachment for mounting my broomhead
at right angles to the normal orientation on the broomstick, for sweeping
the valleys of my tile roof.
Discussion at
https://gasstationwithoutpumps.wordpress.com/2018/08/03/tool-for-sweeping-roof-valleys/
<https://gasstationwithoutpumps.wordpress.com/2018/08/03/tool-for-sweeping-roof-valleys/>  

Files at  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3033594
<https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3033594>  





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