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I like the CR-10, for around $500, but I wonder whether it can get hot
enough for nylon. The hot end for the CR-10 should not go over 240,
which is just at the low end for nylon. You might be able to find some
nylon-ish filaments that would work. I print nylon in an enclosure, and
the CR-10 does not come with one. If you can make do with PLA, the
CR-10 is wonderful.
On 4/24/2018 2:22 PM, fractorr wrote:
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I just printed some nuts and bolts with my CR-10 @0.6mm, as a test. They're very tight but they work great. I like that they're tight. I want to screw them into an aluminium tube that I've tapped out, that appears to be a go. Nice fit, good hold.
I was planning on making an enclosure, and I was planning on trying nylon. I guess I should do those things in that order. _______________________________________________
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For nylon, the number one thing you want is an all-metal heatbreak.
Many of these cheap Chinese printers have a design where the teflon
filament tube goes down into the hot nozzle area. Above 240C, teflon
releases an odorless colorless neurotoxin which is very harmful. You
will need to go over 250C to print Nylon, so a printer design with the
teflon tube up against the nozzle is not suitable.
If you buy one of these cheap machines with the teflon tube hotend,
then spend the money upgrading the hotend to a genuine E3D V6 hotend
which has an all-metal heatbreak. Buy from a genuine reseller such as
Filastruder (USA) or E3D themselves (UK). You will find designs for
upgrading most printers to a V6 on Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory.
Don't believe cheap printer vendor marketing and don't buy a cheap
clone hotend. A lot of them sell these teflon-lined hotends as
"improved design" which isn't actually an improvement at all. Where a
cheap clone actually has a metal heatbreak, usually the machining is
inferior which just leads to filament clogging.
Jamie
On 25 April 2018 at 04:22, fractorr < [hidden email]> wrote:
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If you're shooting for nylon, you'll also want to know that nylon filament is seriously hydroscopic. It can absorb atmospheric water in as little as a day, compared to PLA or ABS which is good for a week or more. Keep the nylon sealed when not in use. Print your part and remove the nylon immediately, unless a repeat print is in the works.
The stuff expands a good ten percent after its printed, depending on the original dimensions.
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Thanks all for the input. What about the Dremel Digilab 3D20? It looks like
it should do what I want and from my reading should be able to nylon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NA00MWS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524633249&sr=1-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Dremel+Digilab+3D20&psc=1On April 24, 2018 4:21:37 PM Jamie Bainbridge < [hidden email]>
wrote:
> For nylon, the number one thing you want is an all-metal heatbreak.
>
> Many of these cheap Chinese printers have a design where the teflon
> filament tube goes down into the hot nozzle area. Above 240C, teflon
> releases an odorless colorless neurotoxin which is very harmful. You
> will need to go over 250C to print Nylon, so a printer design with the
> teflon tube up against the nozzle is not suitable.
>
> If you buy one of these cheap machines with the teflon tube hotend,
> then spend the money upgrading the hotend to a genuine E3D V6 hotend
> which has an all-metal heatbreak. Buy from a genuine reseller such as
> Filastruder (USA) or E3D themselves (UK). You will find designs for
> upgrading most printers to a V6 on Thingiverse or MyMiniFactory.
>
> Don't believe cheap printer vendor marketing and don't buy a cheap
> clone hotend. A lot of them sell these teflon-lined hotends as
> "improved design" which isn't actually an improvement at all. Where a
> cheap clone actually has a metal heatbreak, usually the machining is
> inferior which just leads to filament clogging.
>
> Jamie
>
>
>
> On 25 April 2018 at 04:22, fractorr < [hidden email]> wrote:
> > I am looking at buying a 3D printer, just looking for a small fairly
> > inexpensive 3D printer, any recommendations? It just for prototyping small
> > pieces with a max size of about 4" x 4" x 1", does not need to super fast,
> > hoping to be able to use nylon, something in the $300 - $500 range if
> > possible.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > http://lists.openscad.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss_lists.openscad.org>
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nophead wrote
> Well I have spend years amongst 3D printers with PTFE liners running at
> 255C and haven't noticed my neurons being poisoned
Well that explains a lot ;) once your neurons are done for, you obviously
wont notice...like mad hatters ;)
Wikipedia > The polymer fumes are especially harmful to certain birds whose
breathing, optimized for rapidity, allows toxins which are excluded by human
lungs. Fumes from Teflon in very high heat are fatal to parrots.
So we need a parrot rather than a canary? ... obviously leading to the Monty
Python sketch...
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I have parrots and cook with teflon cookware. I would not worry about
teflon failing in a 3D printer or causing fumes. But there is a plastic
tube in some printers that can fail if they are over heated. The closer
you get to the theoretical failure point, the more risk you have that
the hot end will fail. All metal hot ends are better for high
temperature filaments, but some of them have trouble printing PLA.
On 4/25/2018 5:57 AM, MichaelAtOz wrote:
> nophead wrote
>> Well I have spend years amongst 3D printers with PTFE liners running at
>> 255C and haven't noticed my neurons being poisoned
> Well that explains a lot ;) once your neurons are done for, you obviously
> wont notice...like mad hatters ;)
>
> Wikipedia > The polymer fumes are especially harmful to certain birds whose
> breathing, optimized for rapidity, allows toxins which are excluded by human
> lungs. Fumes from Teflon in very high heat are fatal to parrots.
>
> So we need a parrot rather than a canary? ... obviously leading to the Monty
> Python sketch...
>
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I keep my PLA out all of the time and print with it weeks and
months after I open the reel. I use filament from UltiMachine. I
agree that one has to be more careful with nylon...
On 4/24/2018 7:33 PM, fred wrote:
If you're shooting for nylon, you'll also want to
know that nylon filament is seriously hydroscopic. It
can absorb atmospheric water in as little as a day,
compared to PLA or ABS which is good for a week or
more. Keep the nylon sealed when not in use. Print
your part and remove the nylon immediately, unless a
repeat print is in the works.
The stuff expands a good ten percent after its
printed, depending on the original dimensions.
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tsingi wrote
> So, I should just get a parrot?
And attach electrodes, so when the parrot leaves the mortal coil, you can
activate the exhaust fan?
You should of course have spare parrots.
( ANZAC day < https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anzac_Day> here BTW, so some
beers were consumed...good night)
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Get a mk2 as a kit
Or spend a bit more and get a mk3
It will save a huge amount of time
The auto cal and the removable sheet
Is incredible
Sent from my iPhone
> On 25 Apr 2018, at 6:46 PM, MichaelAtOz < [hidden email]> wrote:
>
> tsingi wrote
>> So, I should just get a parrot?
>
> And attach electrodes, so when the parrot leaves the mortal coil, you can
> activate the exhaust fan?
> You should of course have spare parrots.
> ( ANZAC day < https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anzac_Day> here BTW, so some
> beers were consumed...good night)
>
>
>
> -----
> Admin - PM me if you need anything, or if I've done something stupid...
>
> Unless specifically shown otherwise above, my contribution is in the Public Domain; to the extent possible under law, I have waived all copyright and related or neighbouring rights to this work. Obviously inclusion of works of previous authors is not included in the above.
>
> The TPP is no simple “trade agreement.” Fight it! http://www.ourfairdeal.org/ time is running out!
> --
> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/>
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Let me second a vote for UltiMachine filament. I have only used their ABS
and PLA, but every reel I have gotten from them tends to print smooth as
butter.
I have tried MatterHackers and Hatchbox (Amazon) and had less than stellar
results with both. Saving a few dollars on filament is useless when the
filament causes printer jams, misprints, or the parts crack apart.
I have a giant waterproof tote that I keep everything but my active spool
inside. Every time I get a silica desiccant packet (the "Do-not-Eat" packet
that ships with shoes and electronics) it goes in the tote with the
filament. The lid stays firmly clamped on except when changing filament.
Humidity here normally stays around 85%, so keeping the filament from
absorbing that helps the prints also.
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Don't forget PETg you can reliably print without fans and its got just
enough flex to make it more robust than for example PLA
- although you do need to print hotter (than PLA) and a little slower to
make sure you get best results...
On 25/04/18 14:44, shadowwynd wrote:
> Let me second a vote for UltiMachine filament. I have only used their ABS
> and PLA, but every reel I have gotten from them tends to print smooth as
> butter.
>
> I have tried MatterHackers and Hatchbox (Amazon) and had less than stellar
> results with both. Saving a few dollars on filament is useless when the
> filament causes printer jams, misprints, or the parts crack apart.
>
> I have a giant waterproof tote that I keep everything but my active spool
> inside. Every time I get a silica desiccant packet (the "Do-not-Eat" packet
> that ships with shoes and electronics) it goes in the tote with the
> filament. The lid stays firmly clamped on except when changing filament.
> Humidity here normally stays around 85%, so keeping the filament from
> absorbing that helps the prints also.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://forum.openscad.org/>
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